Mitsubishi FTO F.A.Q.

Q. What does FTO stand for?
A. To give it it’s full title, Mitsubishi Fresh Touring Origination.

Q. How many FTO’s did they build?
A. 1995 = 9,741, 1996 = 2,928, 1997 = 1,960, 1998 = 1,033, 1999 = 616, Total = 16278 FTO made from 1995 -1999 in the Mizushima Plant, Japan. More detailed FTO production info HERE.

Q. How often does the FTO go wrong?
A. Most stuff is easily and cheaply changed because the FTO is screwed together well, but it’s very easy to take apart. Things like the fuse boxes are easily locatable in the engine compartment and under the driver’s side dashboard, with full descriptions in the owners manuals.

Usual stuff to go wrong is;

  • Faulty central locking (easy and cheap to fix – see further down this Q&A section)
  • Poor brakes, discs can warp easily (either skim them or preferably upgrade them)
  • Battery not up to the job after a couple of years (change it for a beefier one. Nissan Micra battery is standard on the FTO!!)
  • Badly behaving idle (the idle control valve or sensor is usually to blame here … just need to clean them usually)

 

Q. I have no underseal under the car – should there be any?
A. Definitely yes! Chances are that it would not have had underseal sprayed on in Japan and British winters will destroy the underside of the car in no time!! Get the whole thing WAXOILED including the chassis legs etc. Don’t delay, do it today!

Q. There are two plastic loops in the passenger’s footwell. What are these for?
A. They are only for the Japanese market. They are used to house flares required in the event of a breakdown etc. They can’t be used for much else. Also flares are illegal in the UK.


Engine, Gearbox & Mechanicals

Q. What are the recommended servicing ( service ) or maintainence ( maintenance ) intervals and can you recommend fluid types?
A. Try these below…

  • Engine oil – 6,000-9,000 miles (10,000-15,000Km) or 12 months – 4.5 litres of good grade semi or fully synthetic oil (see further in this section)
  • Engine oil filter – every time you change the oil. Part number MD135737 or MD360935
  • Cam (Timing) Belt – Think about changing it after 50,000 miles (80,000km), but always before 60,000 miles (100,000km) and 5 years maximum. (one part number is MD211195)
  • Fuel Filter – 60,000 miles (100,000km)
  • Transmission oil – Manual. 40,000-50,000 miles (65,000-80,000Km) – DIA Clean Multi (or DIA-Queen) gear oil.
  • Transmission oil – Automatic. 12,000 miles (16,000km) – DIAQueen ATF-SP3.
  • Transmission filter – Automatic only – replace ever time you change the transmission oil
  • Differential Oil – 50,000 miles (80,000km) – DIA Clean Super Hi gear oil 80 or 90
  • Limited slip diff – DIA Clean Super Hi Gear oil 80 or 90 – VCU type – 50,000 miles (80,000Km)
  • Air Con Gas – HFC – 134A (R134A)
  • Air Con Oil – SUN PAG 56, or Nihon Denso ND-oil 8, Zekusel ZXL100PG
  • Fan belt(s) [air con and power steering] every 50,000 miles (81,000Km)

Q. What’s the difference between the FTO models and their engines etc?
A. The FTO has a range of three engines: GS has an 1800 16v engine, the GR and GX have 2.0 V6 24v DOHC engines and the GPversionR and GPX have 2.0 V6 24v DOHC engines with MIVEC. The MIVEC variable valve timing accounts for about 20bhp more and a bit more torque. Further, the GPX has the highest spec interior/exterior. Bear in mind that there are LOTS of factory options and no two FTO’s are the same.

Q. What is MIVEC?
A. MIVEC is an acronym for ‘Mitsubishi Innovative Valve timing and lift Electronic Control system’. It alters the profile of the cams to suit your driving demands. Thereby under low rev conditions the management system uses the smaller cams. The main feature however is if you open the throttle it can give the valves a longer duration and longer stroke providing maximum and efficient power and torque at all engine speeds. I amounts to an additional 20bhp over the standard engine.

Q. Which oil should I use for my engine?
A. A quick guide…
Take a couple of numbers – 15/40. Not surprisingly this will sound familiar to you because they refer to the performance of an oil at temperatures (hot & cold). The first number is how thick it is when cold (-5 deg.C) [the higher the number the thicker the oil at low temps]. The last number is the viscosity of the oil when it is hot (measured at 100 degC (ie. 40 “centistokes”). From this you can work out that 15W/40 is just as ‘thick’ as 0W/40 at normal working temps but a bit ‘thinner’ when cold. Funnily enough, synthetic oils were originally developed to increase the time between oil changes, not actually protecting engines any more than mineral oils.

More on oil
[from the Technical Manager for Mobil Oil]
The Mitsubishi FTO is a high tech engine with the latest design and best materials in construction. When new, the engine is clean and tolerances are fine. Common sense suggests that to keep it like this and in tune for best performance you have to use a quality lubricant. The most stable products on the market and those which are being chosen by manufacturers for extended service are fully synthetic PAO (PolyAlphaOlefin). This includes Castrol SLX, Esso Ultron and Mobil 1. These products are extremely stable in extremes of performance. Next consideration is viscosity. At the low temperature end you need a 0W to give the best flow around the engine and ability to satisfy hydraulic tappets and variable valve timing. Note: 0W is not thin when cold. It is just thinner than higher numbered oils, in fact it is around 10 times thicker at 20 degrees than the oil is when at 100 degrees. For best high temperature performance you need an oil which has a High Temperatre High Shear (HTHS) rating of 3.5 minimum. This will usually mean a 40 weight oil. The high quality base oil and strong additive package make sure the oil does not shear and become lower than this figure. If it does, you have wear at best and siezure at worst. So there is the case for Mobil 1 0w-40. If it were my road car, and I drive enthusiastically! I would use Mobil 1 0W-40. However if you do not have low temperature situations, or care not about start up fuel economy, and run your FTO as an ultimate balls out rally car, then Mobil 1 Motorsport at 15W-50 may be the way to go to give you ultimate protection at the limit (thicker oil film at highest temperature and power). For your interest the product being promoted by Mitsubishi dealers (Castrol Magnatec) is offered to maximise profit potential from a relatively inferior cheap product. It is a mineral oil with a small percentage of non PAO synthetic to allow the not so low rating of 10w. Sure it will work and the engine will not sieze up. But consider the longer term !! Why do Castrol have a top tier SLX grade. And why are they launching a 0W-40 SLX onto the market. To copycat Mobil 1 0W-40 !!

180PS 2.0L V6 DOHC 200PS 2.0L V6 DOHC MIVEC
125PS 1.8L 4-cyl

Q. I have a noisy tappety engine, how do I adjust the tappets?
A. The GR has non-adjustable hydraulic tappets and it’s only the MIVEC engine’s tappets that can be adjusted (if your GR is tappety put a thicker grade oil in). Find a Mitsubishi garage who has the tappet adjustment tool – the clearances are; Inlet 0.1mm and Exhaust 0.13mm. Want to do it yourself? Check out the Garage guides and Manuals downloads page.

Q. The FTO is available with Automatic and Manual gearboxes. But which is best for me?
A. There are auto and manual versions. Both gearboxes are possibly among the finest examples on the market. The manual gearbox is one of the most precise and rewarding available (it even has a synchromesh on reverse!). Also, the automatic INVECS-II gearbox is excellent having full automatic mode which learns and adapts to your driving style and it also has a ‘Tiptronic’ mode sports shift! As to which is best for you, it’s down to personal preference. Drive both of them and then make a choice!

Q. Gearbox oil – what to use?
A. In light of some threads on the FTO mailing list I had a really in-depth chat with Camskill motorsport about auto gearboxes…
Dextron 3 is the stuff you need to use, but “Dextron 3” is only a specification that an oil has to meet. The auto gearbox oil that Camskill sell is a very high quality Motul oil and you DON’T need a modifier with the oil he supplies. Obviously he can’t speak for other suppliers/oils.
Camskill’s recommendation for FTO auto gearboxes is as follows; –

  • Every 12,000 miles change the fluid FILTER
  • Every 25,000 miles change both the OIL and the FILTER.

By doing this, Camskill would say that it’s a cheap way of reducing the chance of possible problems and wear. Don’t forget that they recommend using *original part filters* when doing oil changes, and can supply original part filters etc. as part of a kit. In the FTO’s auto gearbox there is an AFWUL lot that goes on. In comparison to the engine, the auto gearbox is FAR more complicated and in a way you can look at it being much more important to get the oil right in the gearbox than the engine!!

Q. How do I change the automatic gearbox oil?
A. It can be quite arkward to get all the oil out and you really need to leave it draining overnight. Make sure to measure what comes out so that you can put the same amount back in (you’ll never get 100% of the oil out of the gearbox). The car must be warm (go out for a 10 mile drive before you change the oil) and also get it level (you’ll have to use axle stands). The drain plug is a large hex nut on the right of the gearbox as you look at the car toward the rear. After the oild has been draining for around 30 mins take the filter off (removing the filter before that will mean oil everywhere!)

Q. I’ve heard that the INVECS-II automatic gearbox has 5 gears but mine only has 4! Why?
A. The facelifted models have 5-speed auto boxes but early ’97 and below have 4-speed auto boxes.

This picture shows a cut-away of the IVNECS-II automatic gearbox

Q. How can I swap the tiptronic direction around on the gear stick?
A. This information was obtained from FTO Tension which is a great Japanese FTO site.
STEP 1 Remove the rubber “packing” around the shift knob. Next, remove the cigarette lighter and ashtray.
STEP 2 Remove the shift knob. The button on the shift knob is fixed by two hooks. Push these hooks and remove the shift button. Locate the spring and remove it. There is a rubber cap under this spring, pull it out. Next you can see a nut (12mm) under the pushable rod. Remove this nut. You can then pull out the shift knob.
STEP 3 Remove the centre console panel which is fixed at 4 points: (1) the side of shift knob (2) the other side of 1 (3) the upper-side of the ashtray (4) the other side of 3. Remove these points, carefully. They should just pull out.
STEP 4 Remove the centre box panel. Pull up and remove the cup holder. You should see 2 nuts, remove them. There are 4 nuts in the centre box, remove them, then remove the centre box panel.
STEP 5 Change [+][-] labels around – remove and change carefully. Take care!
STEP 6 Change [+][-] switch. Looking at the left side of shift knob, you will see the micro switch and 4 cables. Cable 1 and cable 2 do not need to be touched. You must switch cables 3 and 4 over
STEP 7 Put it back together in the reverse order!

Q. On the 6-cylinder engines, are there two different types of spark plug for the front and back bank of cylinders! Why is this?
A. The reason that there are two different specifications for spark plugs is that the rear set are difficult to get to and so those ones need changed less often. If you need to change the rear set, you will need to remove the inlet manifold to get to them! The plugs are standard NGK parts. I have the Platinum plugs all round.

Q. What does my chassis number mean?
A. Your number (eg. DE3A 0000000000 HNGH) is split like this:

  • Exhaust emissions: E = complies with 1978 Japanese exhaust gas control regulations
  • Chassis series classification: D = FTO
  • Model classification: E2 = 1800 cc 4G93 4 cyl E3 = 2000cc 6A12 V6
  • Service classification: A = Passenger car Vehicle shape
  • The unique serial number can only be decoded with the help of one of Mitsubishi’s FTO CD-ROM’s
  • Body shape spec: H= 2 door coupe
  • The serial number can be decoded from a Mitsubishi dealer – it relates to YOUR car spec. and options etc.
  • Gear box type: Y= 5 speed Tip-Auto R= 4 speed Tip-Auto N= 5 speed Manual
  • Equipment usage info: U = GS H = GR G = GPX X = GX F = GP
  • Engine spec level: E = 4G93 1.8 16v with electronic fuel injection, M = 6A12 DOHC V6 with Electronic fuel injection, H = 6A12 MIVEC Engine DOHC V6 with Electronic fuel injection and MIVEC

Q. Can I do anything with my brakes? Or they seem to have a wobble on!
A. Standard Mitsi brakes are not really up to much. The GR has 10″ discs with a single pot caliper and the GPX has 10.8″ discs with a twin pot caliper. Rear brakes are the same on both models. If you would like to fit performance parts, the best way to go is buying some performance brake pads with original discs. Another option is Grooved and drilled front disks from EBC (Sejoc) D679-GD.
Don’t forget to clean the hub with wire wool to remove all the bumpy crap accumulated between the hub/disc/wheel.

Q.What is “bedding the brakes in” and how do I do it?
A. “Bedding” is simply conforming the new pads to the rotor. This procedure is recommended for Mintex and Padgit pads:

  • Pagid Basic Bedding In – 3-4 stops with light to medium brake pressure from start (90mph) to finish (60mph). Distance between each stop should be approximately 1/4 mile to allow cooling. The pads should NOT reach temperatures ABOVE 575 to 750 degrees during bedding in process.
  • Pagid Bedding in at High Speed – 1 stop with medium to heavy brake pressure (without allowing lockup) from start (110mph) to finish (60mph). Perform recovery stops with light brake pressure 2-3 times. Repeat this 1 or 2 times. Allow a cooling off distance of approximately 3/10 mile between high speed stops to allow cooling.
  • Mintex 1155 bedding-in: Apply 2-3 light applications of the brakes at 30mph down to 0mph, then apply 8-9 steady applications of the brakes at 90mph down to 30 mph. Leave as long as possible to cool down.
  • Mounting New Pads on Used Discs – Edges of the pad surface should be filed at a 45 degree angle to insure that the pad contacts the disc fully and evenly.

Q. My ignition key is stuck in the ignition barrel in my automatic FTO!
A. There is a cable running from the gearlever to the ignition barrel which allows the key to be removed only in the ‘Park’ mode. It could be the case that the cable has jumped out of the guides or even that one of the guides has broken. You’ll need to take off as much of the plastic covers as you can to see what you’re doing.

Q. Getting at the front brakes is easy, but what about the REAR brakes?

  1. Slacken the handbrake from inside of car as follows; a) Remove 2 screws from inside rear centre console pocket. b) Pop out small recessed holder thing in rear centre console (next to handbrake lever) and remove 2 screws retaining rear centre console. c) Remove centre console rear half d) undo 10mm adjuster nut to slacken off handbrake
  2. Remove rear wheels
  3. Remove horseshoe clip retaining handbrake cable to caliper
  4. Remove handbrake cable from caliper (you may have to remove 1 or 2 of the 12mm bolts retaining the cable)
  5. Undo the lower caliper slide bolt
  6. Lift up the caliper (pivots on the top slide) off the pads and slide off the top slide
  7. Replace brake pads
  8. Return the caliper piston by screwing back into the caliper housing (to do it 100% correctly, you should loosen the bleed nipple and let the fluid behind the piston vent to a container, rather than force it back up the hydralic lines. Reassembly is a reversal of the above.
  9. Before readjusting the handbrake cable at the lever, pump the brake pedal to adjust the rear brake piston on its worm drive
  10. Check brake fluid level and top up as neccesary

Q. My Alternator has packed up – what can I do?
A. Don’t go to Mitsi for your alternator, it’s around £700! Instead you can have yours re-conditioned by a local electrical motor shop (any area with industry will have one of these close to you).

If you want to change it yourself you’ll need a couple of hours, basically the manifold has to come off followed by the throttle body and then the inlet manifold. Remove the manifold bracket and then the alternator bracket and this should allow you to get the alternator out (you need to have patience here as it can be awkward).


Electronics & Electrical

Q. How do I find instructions and how-to’s?
A. Check out the downloads section.

Q. Why do the windows steam up in wet weather if I don’t have the air-con switched on?
A. The air-con also de-humidifies the air and so helps to dry the interior. You can demist windows quickly by pressing the button on the control panel above the rear demister button.

Q. My Japanese radio doesn’t pick up anything!
A. You need a band expander to plug in between the radio and the aerial. It does not cost much and is available from most importers. They shift the frequencies that you receive up the scale, even though your radio may still display the incorrect frequency.

Q. What do I use as a replacement for a blown bulb?

Part Name Part Number Part Manufacturer Make, Model of Equivalent UK Car
Front Fog (55w) H3 (Generic Code) Any
Front Indicator ( 21w) RU382 Ring Any
Front Sidelight ( 5w) RU501 Ring Any
Headlight High Beam ( 60w) HB3 / 9005 (Generic Code) Ford Puma; Audi A8; Lexus GS300
Headlight High Beam ( 65w) R9005 Ring Ford Puma; Audi A8; Lexus GS300
Headlight High Beam ( 65w) LLB9005 Lucas Ford Puma; Audi A8; Lexus GS300
Headlight Low Beam ( 51w) HB4 / 9006 (Generic Code) Lexus GS300
Headlight Low Beam ( 55w) R9006 Ring Lexus GS300
Headlight Low Beam ( 55w) LLB9006 Lucas Lexus GS300
High Level Stop (5w) RU501 Ring Any
Licence Plate (5w) RU501 Ring Any
Rear Indicator ( 21w) RU382 Ring Any
Side Indicator ( 5w) RU501 Ring Any
Stop / Tail ( 21w / 5w) RU380 Ring Any

Q. I’ve removed my stereo, chopped the loom and I don’t know which wires do what!
A. The colours are as following:
Permanent live: RED/BLACK
Accessory +12v: BLUE
Illumination: GREEN/WHITE
Earth: 6mm nut
Antenna trigger: PINK
Rear left speaker+ : YELLOW/BLUE, Rear left speaker- : GREY/BLUE
Rear right speaker+ : YELLOW/RED, Rear right speaker- : GREY/RED
Front left speaker+ : WHITE/BLUE, Front left speaker- : BLACK/BLUE
Front right speaker+ : WHITE/RED, Front right speaker- : BLACK/RED

Q. What do I do about my speedo? I want it to read 0-180mph and have the odometer clock up in miles instead of Km!
A. You can buy white dials with different speedo faces from the FTO Owners Club (merchandise) or ebay.

Q. My central locking is a bit sticky – what can I do?
Removing the door panel.
First remove three black plastic popper covers and the screws behind them. Two on the rear edge adjacent to the door mechanism and one at the front in the panel dashboard recess. Remove screw just below inner door handle and then slide the plastic cover that it held on forward whilst pulling away from door. Remove the large screw that is now exposed. Remove the plastic plug just above the door pocket and remove the screw behind it. Carefully lever the panel away from the inner door skin using a screwdriver at the bottom and then pull the panel off the door. Disconnect the plugs for windows and speakers. Carefully pull the plastic off the door and remove the one inch wide black plastic disc adjacent to the locking mechanism just above the rubber door stop

Removing the lock mechanism
An inspection lamp is really useful now! Look inside the door and you will see where the rods for the internal handle and lock joint the locking mechanism. They are held in place with green (may be orange) plastic clips. Easiest way to remove them is to follow the rods with your hand towards the lock until you feel the plastic clips, push the clips up off the rod then push the rod towards the outer door skin. Next you need to disconnect the two rods for the outer Handle and lock. These disconnect at the handle and lock end (You cannot disconnect them at the Locking mechanism end) The lock rod (shorter of the two) is held by a similar plastic clip. Again follow the rod up until you feel the clip, push the clip off the rod and push the rod back.Now the really fiddle one. Unless you have very small hands and rubber arms you will not be able to get a grip of the top of the last rod. Pull the rubber out above the lock on the end of the door where the door and window meet. Look down though the hole you should see the rod and clip, use a screwdriver to prise the clip open and remember the plastic disc you took off, there was a hole behind it. Put your finger in the hole and push the rod out of the clip. Undo the three screws around the door lock, hold onto the lock or it will drop to the bottom of the door. Manoeuvre the lock mechanism behind the window guide and out of the door. Disconnect the cable plug.

Fix the locking motor
Remove the 6 little screws that hold the circular cover onto the locking mechanism. Don’t lose the rubber seal.
Inside you will see cogs, a little motor and a green disc shaped electrical component. The problem generally seems to caused by the grease in the unit melting and getting into the motor this in turn causes the disc shaped component to overheat and break down reducing the power to the motor stopping it turning fast enough. Easiest way to check is to lift the motor up at the top so the spigot does not engage with the cog and plug the unit back into the car, Every press of the remote button (note you will have to hold the interior light switch in or it will not try and lock/unlock) will result in the motor turning slower and slower every time you press and the disc shaped unit geting very hot !
DO NOT TEST WITH THE UNIT OPEN AND THE MOTOR ENGAGED OR ALL THE BITS WILL COME FLYING OUT !! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

Two ways to resolve this.
1) Very fiddly. Un-solder the two connections to the motor (Make sure you mark which way round they go) Place the motor in a vice spindle down and lever the two metal tabs off the plastic end plate. The motor will now come apart. Gently clean the brushes and conductor with a degreaser. Use two opened paper clips to hold the brushes out the way while you put it back together and tap the metal tabs back into place. Re-solder the two connections.
2) May not resolve the problem. Un-solder the two connections to the motor (Make sure you mark which way round they go) and then spray electrical board cleaner (Not WD40) into the motor several times. Wait until cleaner has evaporated and then reconnect motor.

Test again by connecting to the car. Motor should now turn quickly. If not then electrical componect is probably knacked. If this is the case just bypass the electrical component using a very short piece of wire. Needs to be short or you will not get the cover back on. I just soldered a piece of wire from one leg of the electrical componect to the other. Test again by connecting to the car. Motor should now turn quickly. Reduce the amount of grease in the unit especially above the motor (to stop it happening again) Put it all back together making sure the cover fits correctly. (It should fit flush all the way round without pressure. If not then the cog spindles are not located in their holes correctly.) Very important or lock will not work properly !!

Replacement is the reversal of removal. Except that you when you reconnect the outside door handle rod, do not lift the handle up. Check carefully that the rod is correctly engadged in its clip. Careful the clip is easy to break.I am unsure why the electrical component is there. General concensus seems to be that it is to protect the motor from an overload or to reduce noise picked up on the radio. So it may be that the motor will fail earlier than normal. It is up to you. Take the risk or lock your doors manually ! Peter@sarsota.force9.co.uk

Q. My battery is dead or my car “clicks” when I turn the ignition key.
A. A Halfords HB054 will get you going again, but be aware that the terminals might be the wrong way around, and that the 054 is for a Micra 🙂 Alternatively you can uprate the battery.

Q. My car is lumpy and/or cuts out at idle (or I have a faulty Idle Speed Controller)
A. The ISC (Idle Speed Controller) is a small stepper motor, capable of moving up to 120 steps, bolted to the side of the throttle body. It controls the opening and closing of the idle butterfly, which obviously should open when the engine is cold, and close completely when warm and under normal load (it will open if the engine is loaded, with either heavy alternator load or aircon, etc.). It’s normally the cause of idling problems.
Problems (1) : The 120 steps appears to be a notional figure rather than an actual – ie 0 is not closed and 120 fully open. Depending on the car, how it was serviced and whether this ‘steps’ figure has been reset, many FTOs typically have around the 40 ‘steps’ mark as fully closed. Problems can arise when the fully closed ‘steps’ gets too high, as the ECU will only step up to 120 max. Therefore if the fully closed number of steps is, say, 80 you only have 40 steps until max – which will only partially open the idle butterfly and hence the car will not idle when very cold or under very heavy load. Apparently a Mitsi service should reset this (steps figure to a lower value), providing they’ve got the kit to do it.
Problems (2) : The ISC gets covered in black carbon deposits which prevents it working properly – typically causing hunting at idle and general eratic idling. Remove it (two bolts hold it to the throttle body) clean the hell out of it (WD40 or something), clean the hole in the throttle body where it fits and finally clean and lubricate the main throttle butterfly and interior of the throttle body just for good measure.
Problems (3) : The ECU needs to ‘learn’ where the idle point is – so an ECU reset can sometimes help to force it to relearn!
Problems (4) : Due to the position of the ISC and the wiring loom, the wires to the ISC are prone to fracture and complete breakage. Simply pulling back the black plastic looming material on the six wire connector should show whether all wires are in fine fettle. If you doubt the continuity of the wires, the Owners Club have the Electrical manual and it’s not TOO difficult to trace all 6 wires on the connector back to the 1st ECU connector and one of the junction blocks, both in the passenger footwell.
Problems (5) : Low idling, but everything else is OK – just need to pump up the idle. The throttle body has a recessed idle screw, on the top – towards the front, normally covered by a very obvious circular black rubber dust cap (about half an inch in diameter). Simply remove the dust cap, and turn the screw in or out to increase or decrease the idle speed.


Wheels & Tyres

Q. Are locking wheel nuts available for my wheels?
A. Yes – they are Mitsubishi part number SP029173 and are available from dealers from around 20 quid.

Q. I heard that the FTO is brought over from Japan with poor tyres…?
A. In most cases, yes cars have come from Japan with a lower quality tyre fitted, often “Q Rated” (see below). This can have an adverse effect on handling, road noise and braking. If you have some of these tyres fitted I recommend changing them as soon as possible.

Speed / Tyre rating table

Speed Symbol

Max. Speed MPH

Max. Speed KMH

N

87

140

P

93

150

Q

99

160

R

106

170

S

112

180

T

118

190

H

130

210

V

149

240

W

168

270

Y

186

300

ZR

149+

240

Q. Can I get aftermarket wheels for the FTO?
A. Yes – sizes of wheels and associated tyres follow:

Rim Size Correct Tyre Size
15×6″* 195x60R15
16×6.5″** 205x50R16
17×7″ 205x40R17
17×8″ 225x40R17
15×6.5″ 205x60R15
16×7.5″ 215x45R16
17×7.5″ 215x40R17
18×8″ 215x35R18

If you use the tyres as suggested above with your rims then you will not have any trouble with the tyres rubbing in the arches.

*Standard 15″ GR Wheel **Standard 16″ GPX Wheel

 


Bodywork

Q. I need some touch up paint – where can I get it from
A. Normall, your dealer can help you. Quote the paint code found on the rear bulkhead in the engine bay. It will be something like R34 or R39. For a list of paint codes, check out the FTO Production info page.

Q. The front grille is very rusty and I want to clean it up – how do I take the bumper off?
1) Under the bonnet, unbolt the two metal strips which go from the bumper back to the chassis, just above the radiator (they’re right on top, easy to access).
2) Under the bumper, remove plastic screws/lugs from the two plastic strips that go from the bumper back to the chassis. They’re quite big and plastic, and are a part of the bumper (hence the same colour as your car).
3) At the front edge of each front wheel arch, remove the screws to release the front part of the mud guard. By mud guard I mean the black plastic casing around the entire wheel arch. Remove a few of the screws at the front to access a vertical screw which goes from the bumper up into the bodywork, right at the end of bumper. Its at the point where the line between bumper and front left body panel meet the wheel arch. Get a screw driver up there, and release this screw. (if you can’t see it, get a light under the car). THIS is the only tricky bit.
4) Now simply remove the four main bolts which hold the bumper on. They’re under the car, along two rails which face forward on either side of the engine. You should now be able to carefully slide the bumper forward. Before removing the bumper, disconnect the plugs to either fog light – there’s one big plug for each.

Q. Where can I get the FTO stickers (decals) from?
A. Mitsubishi dealer or ebay. Need a part number? Check below!

  • “GX” 97063 MR775422 GREY MR775423 SILVER GREY
  • “GR” 97337 MR192636 GREY MR192637 SILVER GREY
  • “GP” 97532 MR245992 GREY MR245993 SILVER GREY
  • “GPX” 97338 MR192638 GREY MR192639 SILVER GREY
  • 3 DIAMOND EMBLEM 97163 MR192632 GREY MR192633 SILVER GREY
  • “VERSION R” 97511 MR361006 RED/GREY FRONT MR361007 BLACK GREY FRONT MR361008 BLUE/BLUE FRONT MR361009 RED/GREY LH MR361010 BLACK/GREY LH MR361011 BLUE/BLUE LH MR361012 RED/GREY RH MR361013 BLACK/GREY RH MR361014 BLUE/BLUE RH
  • “MIVEC” 97880 MR162640 GREY MR192641 SILVER GREY
  • 3 DIAMOND EMBLEM 97612 MB619311 RED/CHROME MR300033 RED/DIAX3 (?)

Q. How to I remove the front bumper?
A. There’s one important bolt/screw just inside the wheel arch at the join between bumper and the wing each side. Next take out your fog/side light pods – a long philips screw in each. Then there’s the two bolts along the top of the engine bay – they’re quite obvious. Take ’em both out. Next, get under the car and you’ll find two sets of two (quite large) gold coloured bolts in rails. Take all four of these out and the bumber will slide forward nicely. I found this all out AFTER I’d removed all the wheel-arch linings, the headlamp bolts, etc, etc…!! Oh… and it’s best to get a friend to help, if you can… or you may end up scratching various bits of bodywork (especially re-fitting). If you need more details, check out the downloads at the manuals page!